How does glass etching work




















Glass etching is a glass art technique that consists of applying acidic, caustic, or abrasive substances to the surface of the glass in order to roughen its texture in selected areas with the end goal of creating a design. Its uses range from adding text and design to simple glassware like cups and jars at home, to creating full-fledged, mind-blowing art pieces and decorations for museums and churches.

The principles of glass etching are simple. Most popular glass etching techniques:. Surface etching: Surface etching is the most popular, easiest, and most beginner friendly of the etching techniques. The blasting is all done in one stage, which means that the design produced looks two dimensional and only has two shades of color.

Glass shading: Similar to etching, but more complex because different sections of the glass are etched to varying densities in order to create shades of color. Glass shading is much more complicated and requires another level of expertise than surface etching, but results in more detailed designs. Glass carving: This technique consists of creating a three-dimensional image by carving deep into the glass. Q: How can I make the finished etched design appear darker or add color?

A: Due to the nature of the Armour Etch chemical the final etched results will always be a surface etch. When you are etching clear glass, you will be able to see the light through the etched design which gives the final results a translucent appearance.

Mirror on the other hand appears to be darker simply because the light is not going through the mirror and the image is reflected back off the silvered layer.

A metallic wax can be rubbed into the etched design that will enhance the finished etched project. It is best to use this special effect for display pieces that will not require repeated cleaning. Washing, especially in the dishwasher, will remove the brilliance of the wax, and eventually, the entire layer.

Metallic Wax part , , or Pinata paints part can applied to the etched area. Another brand name of metallic wax is Treasure Gold which we do not sell. Q: I want to etch my glass shower door or entrance door for privacy. How can I achieve this? The only way to professional etch your glass for privacy that will give you complete coverage is to Sand Blast the glass.

Since this is quite messy and costly, we have a few other alternatives for you to consider that do not involve etching or sand blasting. Part Privacy Film more professional end results Frosted paint Not my first choice for a bathroom Q: How can I Armour Etch a design on a glass door or panel that is already installed? To etch a solid panel you need to sandblast the glass.

If you are going to etch a design into the glass on the inside panel of a door glass, just take extra care to cover the furniture or surrounding items inside your house with plastic drop clothes. Cut open plastic garbage bags to create drop clothes. Decorate the glass using already prepared Glass Etching stencils or create you own custom design. Be careful to keep any open areas of the design under one inch by one inch.

Follow the directions on applying Armour Etch Cream. You will need a plastic bucket with water, plastic gloves and sponge. Wash off the Armour Etch Cream with a sponge.

Clean the sponge frequently with the water in the bucket. For large projects, you might need to replace the bucket water with clean water. Dry off with paper towels and remove the stencil. Baking soda can be added to your waste water to neutralize the water. The ph strip will indicate when the water is neutralized.

Once neutralized, the water can be flushed down the toilet. Stainless sinks are the only ones that are impervious to the Armour Etchant. Ceramic sinks will start to dull if repeatedly subjected to the etchant.

If you drop a large amount of etchant onto a ceramic sink, the clear protective layer of the sink will be removed. So avoid using sinks that are NOT stainless or plastic utility sinks. A: Accumulate the waste water in a plastic pail or tub. Once neutralized, the water can be flushed down the toilet and not affect your septic system.

A: I highly recommend that you use a pair of plastic gloves to cover your hands during the very short time you are applying and rinsing off the etchants. You can use any plastic glove like the ones used to wash dishes. A: The round cutting blade must be turning freely. Sometimes the people who assemble the units tighten the area that holds the cutting wheel too tightly. Please follow the directions for replacing the cutting wheels to adjust the wheels so they are freely turning.

There are two wheels in every unit. One is visible and the second one is inside the blade housing. Instruction link is below for changing out the cutting wheels. A tiny drop of oil needs to be placed on the cutting wheel for lubrication.

Be careful no to over oil, this can cause the wheel to be slippery and not score. The cut line should be made only ONE time. This scoring does not cut the glass, but only scores it. The tapping from the inside of the bottle creates the "cut".

So going over and over the scored line only wears out the cutting head and will not cut the glass no matter how many rotations are made. The bottle cutter unit needs to be put on the edge of the table so that the front leg of the unit hangs over the table. Adhere a piece of tape to the top of the glass. The tape serves two purposes: 1 It protects the glass that you don't want to get etched, and 2 It provides a straight line to use as a guide for placing the sticker letters.

I aligned the top of the tape with the top of the glass, so that the bottom of the tape would provide a straight line to use as a guide for placing the sticker letters where I wanted them on the glass. You can cut the width of the tape or add another row of tape in order to position the letters on the glass where you want them. Step 4. Due to the tapered curve of the glass, the tape wrinkled as I adhered it to the glass and resulted in a jagged lower edge.

That edge needs to be smooth in order to have a smooth top edge on the etching. I placed an additional smaller piece of tape along the lower jagged edge to create a smooth line, as pictured below.

NOTE: If you're etching a flat piece like a square jar , you won't have this problem. Step 5. Place the letter stickers slightly below the bottom edge of the tape.

It's easier to handle and position the stickers if you attach them to a thin, pointed extender like an Exacto knife, a long needle, or something similar. Step 6. Add tape along the bottom and on each of side of the letters. Be careful to place the tape on straight and at an equal distance from the letters on all sides. All of the glass that is exposed inside the tape will be etched; so take your time and reposition the tape, if necessary, until you get it right.

Step 7. Firmly press down the tape and sticker edges using a cloth or paper towel; or, you can use your fingers if you're wearing a plastic glove. Make sure the sticker and tape edges are firmly stuck so that no etching cream can get underneath them. Don't use your fingers or you will get fingerprints on the glass. Step 8. Put on plastic gloves. This is absolutely essential! The etching cream is an acidic chemical that shouldn't come in contact with your skin or eyes.

Read the safety precautions on the container. Wear protective clothing and eye protection. Step 9. Use a popsicle stick to apply etching cream in a thick, even coat.

A brush is usually recommended for this step, but it's easier and faster to apply a thick coat with a popsicle stick. Step The etching cream may have some visible crystal chunks; these are a necessary part of its chemistry. However, the etching result can be blotchy and uneven in the areas with crystals. You can remedy this by using the popsicle stick to guide any large crystals away from the area being etched and onto the taped area.

Leave the etching cream on for 5 minutes. I use a timer for this. Twice during that five minutes, after approx. This redistributes the cream in case there are any air pockets or crystals that are creating spots or uneven etching. Be gentle--you don't want to loosen the tape or stickers. Wash off the etching cream under hot tap water, using your gloved hand to wipe it away. The heat of the water makes it easy to pull off the tape and stickers.

Practice first. If you decide to try etching on glass, I recommend that you practice on an old jar or something you won't mind discarding. I'm sure glad I didn't ruin one of my good glasses in an early practice round. Efficient, time saving tip.

If you are etching multiple pieces, it progresses faster if you do all of the taping and sticker application on every piece first. Then you can shift gears to applying the etching cream. I found that I could apply the cream to 3 glasses at a time, wait five minutes and start rinsing them off in hot water. It's okay if the 2nd and 3rd glasses have the cream on a little longer while you're rinsing the glass before them. Here's my set of 12 glasses.

I don't think anyone would know that the etching wasn't done professionally if I didn't tell them. These could be adapted for so many gifts. There's no limit to the ways they can be personalized for birthdays, weddings, and special occasions.



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