This may require light watering two or three times a day for 7 to 21 days. Bluegrass takes 7 to 14 days longer to germinate than other cool-season grasses.
As the seedlings grow and root, water less often but for longer periods. For mixtures containing bluegrass, do not make the mistake of decreasing water as soon as the first seedlings appear. Continue watering until the bluegrass seedlings emerge. After the third mowing, water to a depth of 6 to 8 inches about once a week or when needed. Begin mowing as soon as the grass is 50 percent higher than the desired height.
For example, mow tall fescue back to 3 inches when it reaches 4. The frequency of mowing is governed by the amount of growth, which depends on temperature, fertility, moisture conditions, the season, and the natural growth rate of the grass.
The suggested height of cut is given in Table 9—1. The homeowner should cut often enough that less than one-third of the total leaf surface is removed. Use a mower with a sharp blade. To reduce the danger of spreading disease and injuring the turf, mow when the soil and plants are dry. If clippings are heavy enough to hold the grass down or shade it, catch them or rake and remove them. Otherwise, do not bag the clippings.
Allow them to fall into the turf where they decay and release nutrients. This may reduce the need for fertilizer by 20 to 30 percent. Fungicides and insecticides are rarely needed on new lawns. Weeds are common and it is environmentally responsible to have some tolerance of weeds in a lawn. If weeds are deemed a problem, be aware that different planting methods require different management methods.
If any pesticides or herbicides are used, always read and follow label directions. Seeding: Broadleaf weeds are common in new seedings. Many are controlled with frequent mowing at the proper height. Selective pre-emergence herbicides may be used to manage some annual grassy weeds such as crabgrass.
Other herbicides may be applied to young seedlings during establishment. Planting sprigs, broadcasting sprigs, and plugging : Herbicides may be applied for control of certain annual grasses and broadleaf weeds when sprigging bermudagrass, centipedegrass, St. Augustinegrass, and zoysiagrass. Do not apply these herbicides over the rooting areas of trees and ornamentals that are not listed as being tolerant on the herbicide label. Sodding: Pre-emergence herbicides can be applied for annual weedy grass control after sodding cool- and warm-season grasses.
A lawn is considered established when it has been mowed three times. Improper irrigation of lawns results in wasted water, added cost, and unhealthy plants.
Water should be applied only when a reasonable portion of the lawn shows signs of moisture stress. A dark bluish-gray color, footprints that remain for some time after walking, and wilted, folded, or curled leaves are indications that it is time to water Figure 9— If irrigation is not available or desirable, then an alternative to irrigating is to allow the turf to go semi-dormant. Tall fescue, bermudagrass, and zoysiagrass are tolerant of drought if allowed to go dormant.
General watering recommendations include the following:. Take certain precautions if there will be no irrigation throughout the summer. Slowly ease a lush, actively growing lawn into dormancy. This can be accomplished by allowing the drought stress symptoms to appear between infrequent irrigation cycles, by mowing high, and by not over-fertilizing with nitrogen.
Brown, withered leaves are normal signs of dormancy, so do not be alarmed by them. If the lawn is conditioned for this stress and has a reasonable level of maintenance, it should survive without permanent damage. Most turfgrasses can withstand three to six weeks or longer without rainwater or irrigation and exhibit minimal or no damage, depending on the situation. In the absence of rain, water dormant lawns with a minimal amount about 0. It is difficult to maintain vibrant green color in cool-season grasses during the summer.
Irrigation helps maintain color, but may also increase the risk of disease. For this reason, it is particularly important that cool-season grasses not be overwatered. Be vigilant about checking irrigation systems for overspray and be sure to direct heads so they are not hitting tree trunks, plant foliage, fences, buildings, or other hardscape elements.
Repeated overspray can cause salt buildup and can damage plants and structures Figure 9— It is also important to check irrigation timing so water does not run off the lawn and onto a sidewalk or street Figure 9— Use either a rotary centrifugal or reel cylinder mower.
The reel mower is preferred if grasses are cut to less than 1 inch Figure 9— A soil test should be made at least every two to three years to determine the amounts of lime, phosphorus, and potassium needed by an established lawn. Failure to test can result in under- or overfertilization that can lead to plant damage, contamination of storm water, and unnecessary expense. A complete fertilizer with an N-P-K ratio of or can be used in lieu of a soil test, but it is not advised.
Cool-season grasses : Avoid any nitrogen fertilization of cool-season grasses, such as tall fescue, after the February application until September for the North Carolina central Piedmont.
If one additional application of nitrogen is made between these dates to improve the color, the rate should not exceed 0. This nitrogen should be applied in the central piedmont no later than April 15 two weeks earlier in the coastal plain and two weeks later in the mountains.
This application does not improve the longevity of tall fescue but enhances its green color. The application of high rates or repeated low rates of nitrogen to cool-season grasses in the spring or summer greatly increases the severity of brown patch Rhizoctonia spp. If spring or summer nitrogen applications, or both, are applied to tall fescue, fungicide applications may be necessary to reduce disease symptoms.
Warm-season grasses: Avoid fall or winter applications of nitrogen to reduce winter injury. Most soils in North Carolina are acidic and just right for centipedegrass, which requires a pH close to 5.
Most turfgrasses, however, prefer a soil pH between 6. Lime may be applied any time during the year. Winter is usually best, however, because there is less traffic. Gentle winter rains minimize runoff, and alternate freezing and thawing help incorporate lime into the soil. Fertilizers and lime should be applied uniformly with a centrifugal rotary or drop-type spreader.
Apply half the fertilizer in one direction and the other half moving at right angles to the first pass to ensure uniform coverage Figure 9— Weeds occur in any lawn, but a thriving turfgrass lawn naturally crowds out most weeds.
Choosing a proper location and turfgrass variety and preparing the site before planting gives the lawn the best possible start. Once established, paying close attention to adequate moisture, proper fertilization, and frequent mowing at no more than 50 percent of the height of the grass blades keeps the turfgrass in top condition. Frequent mowing also stops weeds from flowering and going to seed. Turfgrass that is stressed from drought or overwatering, burned from too much fertilizer, or stressed from scalping is much more likely to struggle with weed populations.
Compaction also negatively affects turfgrass causing weeds to more easily establish themselves. Many weeds in a lawn can be frustrating to a homeowner, but having some tolerance for weeds keeps chemical use to a minimum.
Tolerating some weeds can also improve soil conditions and help support the ecosystem. Weeds like dandelion have taproots that break up heavy clay soil. Their blooms are food for many pollinators such as honey bees and butterflies. Clover is a legume and so has nitrogen-fixing bacteria in the roots, and its blossoms are a favorite of honey bees. If herbicides are deemed necessary, use them as part of an integrated plan based on good cultural practices.
No one herbicide is going to be effective to manage all weeds in a lawn. Being able to properly identify weeds and understand their life cycle is essential to their management. Young and actively growing weeds are easiest to manage. Removing weeds by hand as they appear, and before they flower and set seed, can be an effective technique for a small area. If an herbicide is used, make sure that the soil is moist several days before application.
Carefully read and follow directions and precautions on the herbicide labels. Treat only those areas that need it. To help control weeds that may have gone to seed in the lawn use a pre-emergence herbicide.
Pre-emergent herbicides stop all seeds from emerging from the soil, so do not apply them when trying to renovate a lawn with new grass seed. Post-emergence herbicides are used for actively growing weeds that have emerged from the soil. Post-emergent herbicides can be either selective or nonselective , contact , or systemic.
Selective means the herbicide affect only certain types of plants usually monocots or dicots. Nonselective herbicides kill any growing plant, so these should be used with great caution. Contact herbicides damage any tissue they come into contact with, while systemic herbicides translocate through a plant and can be more effective against older weeds.
Selective broadleaf post-emergence herbicides should be used four to six weeks before seeding with grass. Most selective post-emergent herbicides that control annual grassy weeds, such as crabgrass, should also be applied at least four weeks before seeding with the desired grass. Weed and feed products contain a pre-emergence or post-emergence broadleaf herbicide, and sometimes both. These products should be used only when a high number of weeds are present and treatment is necessary—not every time the lawn is fertilized.
Certain broadleaf herbicides can be absorbed by tree and shrub roots and can cause damage if applied too close to the drip line. Soils that are subject to heavy traffic are prone to compaction. Coring alleviates this condition. Use a device that removes soil cores. Chop up the cores, and, if possible, distribute them by dragging with a span of chain-link fence or a mat.
Coring should be accomplished when the lawn is actively growing so that it can recover from any injury. Core cool-season grasses in fall or early spring. Core warm-season grasses in late spring or early summer. Some lawn care and landscape companies offer coring services if rental equipment is not available.
Power Raking Verticutting. Sod-forming grasses, such as Kentucky bluegrass, bermudagrass, zoysiagrass, St. Augustinegrass, and centipedegrass, tend to build up thatch when they are heavily fertilized and watered. When thatch exceeds 0. A light power raking is better than trying to remove too much debris at one time. When not excessive, thatch buildup can be removed from warm-season grasses by cutting as closely as possible at spring green-up and then raking by hand.
To avoid seriously injuring the lawn, a 3-inch blade spacing is required to remove thatch from centipedegrass and St. Some lawn care and landscape companies have specialized equipment and offer power raking services.
Footprints that remain sometime after walking indicate irrigation is needed. Sprinklers that overspray and hit trees, shrubs, or other structures can cause salt buildup and damage to plant tissue. Water running off onto the sidewalk from an irrigation system that was set to run too long. Avi S. Lawn renovation refers to any procedure beyond normal maintenance short of soil modification required to upgrade an existing lawn. A deteriorated lawn is often a symptom of some underlying problem.
Failure to identify and correct the exact problem can lead to further lawn deterioration and the need for repeated renovation. These are some of the major causes of turf deterioration:. The problems that caused the lawn to deteriorate must be corrected before the renovation process begins.
Late summer to early fall is the best time to renovate cool-season lawns. Warm-season lawns are best renovated in late spring to early summer. Attempts to upgrade existing lawns when conditions are not conducive to good growth are difficult at best. When renovating a lawn, the first step is the management of undesirable vegetation that competes with newly planted grasses.
Some weeds growing in small areas may be removed by hand weeding or by using a small hoe, rake, or shovel. Hard-to-control weeds, such as perennial grasses with underground shoots or weeds in large areas, may be controlled with herbicides.
To control perennial grassy weeds, undesirable turfgrasses, annual grasses, and broadleaf weeds, spray a nonselective herbicide. It takes several applications spaced three to four weeks apart to completely control bermudagrass. If perennial grassy weeds like bermudagrass are scattered throughout, consider killing the entire lawn.
When using an herbicide that translocates from the leaves to the roots of the plant, do not disturb the soil or plants before treatment. Preplanting renovation procedures are designed to create the optimum environment for the establishment of newly planted grasses. This process includes the following steps:. Reduce competition. Set the rotary or reel mower at the lowest setting, mow, and collect the clippings.
Remove all undesirable vegetation, dead grass, thatch, and weeds so that the soil is exposed. This may not be necessary if a slit seeder is used. A rake or hoe is ideal for small areas. Several passes with a dethatcher power raker or vertical mower is usually the best choice for large areas. If thatch is excessive, it may be necessary to make another pass with a dethatcher after mowing. Both mowing and dethatching reduce plant competition and enhance light penetration for good germination and fast establishment.
Apply fertilizer and lime. Uniformly apply needed fertilizer and lime based on soil test results. Hand application is fine for small areas, but a rotary or drop-type spreader should be used on large areas to ensure uniform application. Prepare a good seedbed. In small bare spots, loosen the top 4 to 6 inches of the soil with a rake, hoe, or shovel. On soils difficult to loosen with hand equipment, loosen the top 2 to 3 inches for good results.
Fill in low areas, and smooth the surface so clods are smaller than marbles. Large areas and areas that contain 50 percent desirable grasses are best prepared for seeding by using a piece of equipment such as an aerator or coring machine that brings small soil cores to the surface.
This brings soil to the surface with minimal disruption and create an environment for good seed-to-soil contact. Core in several directions, allow plugs to dry, and then pulverize them with a mower, dethatcher, or by dragging a span of weighted down chain-link fence behind a tractor or lawn mower. Because tines have a difficult time penetrating dry, compacted soils, coring is best achieved when the soil is damp.
Bare spots larger than 4 inches in diameter should be replanted. Smaller areas tend to fill in naturally, provided the lawn grass is capable of spreading. Tall fescue and perennial ryegrass exhibit a bunch-type growth habit and are incapable of spreading. Choose a blend or mixture that is compatible with the environment and the existing lawn.
To ensure uniform coverage, use a rotary or drop-type spreader, applying half the seed in one direction and the other half at right angles to the first pass. A slit seeder, consisting of a vertical grooving seeder and seed box, can be used to ensure good seed-to-soil contact with minimum disruption Figure 9— Seed should be drilled in a diamond-shaped pattern. Dry, compacted soils, obstructions such as rocks and trees, and excessive slopes may limit the usefulness of a slit seeder.
Bare areas that are seeded should be mulched to enhance germination. Plugging can be used for those grasses that spread laterally—not bunch-type grasses such as tall fescue, ryegrass, bahiagrass, and fine fescue. Place plugs on either 6-inch or inch centers, depending on the desired establishment speed.
Use a plugging device to remove plugs of soil from bare areas, and switch them with plugs collected from healthy areas. Apply a starter-type fertilizer, such as 10 pounds per 1, square feet of fertilizer. Large areas of 15, sq ft or more can be sprigged using this method, which is often reserved for bermudagrass. Rototill the recommended amount of fertilizer and lime, indicated by soil test results, or apply lime at 75 pounds per 1, sq ft and fertilizer at 20 pounds per 1, sq ft to the area to be sprigged.
Spread sprigs over the surface using rates provided in Table 9 —4 for new areas. Press them into the top 0. Roll the area to firm the soil and ensure sprig-to-soil contact. Keep renovated areas moist with light sprinklings several times a day. As the seedlings, plugs, or sprigs grow, continue to decrease the frequency of watering while increasing the duration to promote deep rooting. After the third mowing, water to a depth of 6 inches. Mow the area as normal, using a sharp blade. But continue to severely stunt existing vegetation by mowing short until desirable grasses have germinated and the desired mowing height is achieved.
This reduces the competition for new seedlings. Use the example provided in that section to determine how much fertilizer to use. Warm-season grasses can be fertilized every four weeks until coverage is complete. Use a complete N- P-K fertilizer that provides about 1 pound of nitrogen per 1, sq ft. Twice-monthly applications of a nitrogen-only fertilizer that provides about 0. Keep unnecessary traffic off the renovated lawn until it is well established.
A core aerator left pulls plugs of soil out of the ground which makes it better for soil compaction. A slitseeder right has disks that make slices in the soil, a hopper feeds seed into the slits, and then a roller behind rolls it in. A cultipacker or roller ensures the seeds have good soil contact to help with germination rates.
People are becoming more concerned about the potential effects of chemicals on our environment. Research indicates that pesticide use poses a minimal threat to the health of humans, animals and the environment. But because we cannot be certain, many people choose to avoid pesticides. What is the best way to handle a pest problem that is destroying the appearance of a lawn?
Should pesticides be used, cultural practices changed, or both? The balanced use of all available control methods is called integrated pest management IPM.
The idea is simple. All available prevention and control methods are used to keep pests from reaching damaging levels. Pesticides are used only when necessary. Planting the best-adapted grass and then watering, mowing, and fertilizing it properly form the basis for integrated pest management. Keeping the lawn healthy enables it to tolerate low levels of diseases and pests and makes the area a good habitat for beneficial organisms that help control pests.
Properly identifying an insect or disease helps guide appropriate management strategies. Table 9—5 lists common turf insects and diseases. The Turffiles Centre is an invaluable tool in giving background information on common turf insects and available treatment options. The TurfFiles Centre also has background information on common turf diseases , a tool to help you identify diseases based on signs and symptoms in your lawn, and several strategies for managing those diseases.
Table 9—5. Common turf insects and diseases. To best use natural controls, it is important to develop a sound understanding of the biology and ecology of the lawn environment. Fortunately, many books and other educational materials are available to assist the homeowner. There are also an increasing number of offerings from companies that specialize in organic lawn care. These range from organic fertilizers, nematodes or bacteria that attack caterpillars, to traps, and nontoxic repellents.
Some are quite effective, whereas the effectiveness of others has not been well documented. As each product is tested and proven to be effective, it will be added to the list of available options for turf pest management. In the meantime, if chemical control is necessary, select the safest effective pesticide and closely follow label recommendations. Chemicals should be applied when the pest is most susceptible. Treat only those areas in need, and regard pesticide use as only one of many tools available in lawn care.
Integrated pest management can be successful, but homeowners must realize that more time and labor are required and high expectations may not be met when pest issues and environmental conditions are severe.
Turfgrass is the best choice for areas of the landscape that are heavily used by family and pets for play and sports activities. However, lawns can require significant time and money for maintenance, water, and fertilizer.
There can be an environmental impact from the air pollutants released by gas lawn mowers and the fertilizer nutrients and pesticides that make it into water sources. If there are turf areas in a landscape that are underused, consider one of the many attractive, wildlife supporting lawn alternatives Figure 9— Not all turfgrass needs to be removed at one time.
Try starting with a small patch of grass, perhaps on the side of a home. Or an area at the edge of an existing turf patch can be carved out. Some lawn alternatives can take a few seasons to become established, so be patient. Conducting a soil test of the planting area gives insight into plants that are well adapted to this soil type and allows for the addition of amendments if they are needed.
Incorporating a 1-to 2-inch layer of compost into the soil helps plants become established quickly. Many different ground covers are available from local and mail-order nurseries.
Choosing one that thrives in given site conditions offers a low-maintenance alternative to turfgrass. As such, they may contain out-of-date references and broken links.
Following the drought of and the disconcerting forecast for continued suboptimal rainfall in there are lots of lawns that need work this spring and we might have more problems ahead this summer.
This article considers the strengths and weaknesses of the major turfgrasses that can be managed as lawn grasses across Virginia, where they are best adapted, and how their use fits into lawn management programs that deliver quality, aesthetically pleasing turf in an environmentally friendly approach.
Cool-season turfgrasses. These grasses prefer temperatures of o F and have active growing periods in the late summer to early winter, and early spring to early summer. Their growth rates in mid-summer drop sharply as they encounter the typical high temperatures and possible drought of the summer season.
These grasses are best adapted to the hill and valley regions of the southwest, the Shenandoah Valley, and northern Virginia. Tall fescue is grown in all regions of the state but is likely to struggle during summer extremes in the southern Piedmont and Tidewater regions. Spring establishments are possible, but fall is the preferred time for planting. Tall fescue. This is the best adapted turfgrass used as a lawn grass across the state.
It is noted for having the deepest root system of the cool-season grasses, allowing it to avoid drought be using water it finds deeper in the soil profile. Tall fescue seed germinates quickly days and is readily available as sod around the state. It performs best in full sun to moderate shade, is tolerant of a wide range of physical and chemical soil conditions, and performs best at cutting heights of inches. It is managed as a bunch clump grass although some of the latest cultivars are touted for their rhizomatous below-ground stems growth habit.
Kentucky bluegrass. The dark green color and fine to medium leaf blades of the vast number of cultivars of this grass provide some of the prettiest lawns in the region. It is a full-sun turfgrass that if selected, indicates a commitment by the homeowner to a moderate to high maintenance lawn. This grass has an aggressive creeping growth habit from rhizomes and can produce a significant thatch layer over years of aggressive management.
Seed is readily available, but it is slow to germinate days and complete establishment usually takes months, making spring plantings much less successful than those of early fall. Buffalograss is best used on low-maintenance sites. It has a gray-green color and fine texture. Though technically a warm-season grass, buffalograss survives in most of the United States and southern Canada. High Points: Tolerates climatic extremes; requires little fertilizer, pest control, or mowing.
Low Points: Has a relatively unattractive color; does not tolerate traffic well; slow to establish; goes dormant in winter, as well as summer if not irrigated , and thus can be brown for much of the year.
Well-adapted to the Southeast, this "lazy man's grass" forms a coarse, light to medium green lawn that looks good with only moderate maintenance. It doesn't have a true winter dormant state. Common centipedegrass is usually used; name varieties are seldom sold. High Points: Needs little maintenance; invites few serious pest or disease problems; grows slowly for reduced mowing. Homeowners can establish new lawns by sod or seed or springs or plugs, if seed is not an option.
Sod is the quickest way to establish your lawn, but it's also more expensive than the alternatives. Further, you are limited to the varieties that local sod growers have chosen to plant. One situation may demand sod: steep slopes. Slopes are prone to erosion, and heavy rains can wash away seed; sod will stay put, especially when pinned. Seed saves you money up front, and you may find a wider selection of varieties in garden centers. However, lawn planted from seed may take a year to develop a thick strand, and you may find yourself reseeding areas that didn't establish well.
Also, weeds may be problematic until the young grass thickens. Many warm-season varieties aren't available from seed, so they are sold as sprigs stolons or plugs. These are planted in the soil and gradually spread until they've filled in to form a solid lawn. Sprigs are sold by the bushel from garden centers; plugs are sold by the tray. See how to start a lawn from plugs and sprigs. June 08, Save Pin FB More. Where you live is the most important factor affecting how grasses will perform.
Front Yard Japanese Maple. Alternatives: Bermuda grass, tall fescue Zone 3: St. Augustine grass Stenotaphrum secundatum Photo by Roger Foley Traits: This plug- or sod-grown species does best in sandy soil and bright sun.
When to plant: April Newest varieties: 'Raleigh,' 'Delmar,' and 'Mercedes' are shade-tolerant and winter-hardy. Photo by Roger Foley Traits: Originally from Africa, it thrives in full sun, spreads aggressively, and needs lots of fertilizer. Alternatives: Fine-leaf and tall fescue. Thanks for signing up! Check your inbox for a welcome email. Email required. By signing up, you agree to our Privacy Notice and European users agree to the data transfer policy.
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